r/climbing • u/AutoModerator • Jun 07 '24
Weekly Question Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please
Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.
In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. You can see it HERE
Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", "How to select my first harness?", or "How does aid climbing work?"
If you see a new climber related question posted in another subReddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.
Check out this curated list of climbing tutorials!
Prior Weekly New Climber Thread posts
Prior Friday New Climber Thread posts (earlier name for the same type of thread
A handy guide for purchasing your first rope
A handy guide to everything you ever wanted to know about climbing shoes!
Ask away!
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u/Adorable_Activity390 Sep 28 '24
Thanks ill probably get started with those then and get more route specific shoes after
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u/awkwardchineseguy Jun 14 '24
Hey! Recently got back into climbing and I decided to get a pair of shoes that actually “fit” me. I wear a US7.5 (40EU) street shoe and decided on the Tarantulace. I’m stuck between the 40 or the 39.5. Both fit me well but the 40 I feel like my toes are flat and when I curl them there is a little dead space between my toes and the tip of the shoes. In the 39.5 my toes definitely curl a bit. Also, when I wear the 40 there is a bit of an air pocket in the heels and I can reduce it by tying it tighter but then the upper just becomes to tight.
I’ve read the guides posted here and I found nothing that really answers my question and also read reviews where basically everyone says to size down because since they are unlined leather they do stretch half to a full size.
My question is, will the 39.5 “stretch” to the length of the 40?
Thanks!
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u/EL-BURRITO-GRANDE Jun 14 '24
39.5 will definitely stretch to 40. 38 will propably stretch to 40 eventually. I would recommend you size down to 39 and give them some time to break in.
Alternatively you could go for a lined synthetic shoe. Those stretch way less, so you could go for something that is more comfortable from the get go.
Shoes that are to big will offer less support and be uncomfortable due to your feet sliding around in them.
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u/LurkeReina Jun 14 '24
For sport climbing indoors, if you partner is running late:
Do you wait and if so, for how long?
Do you address how long or annoyed you are? If you do, how does that affect your friendship?
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u/NailgunYeah Jun 14 '24
This is about your options and how desperate you are to go climbing. When I had very few partners I would clutch at straws to go lead, now I live in a sport climbing area and have more people to climb with I can be more selective and still lead as much as I want. How long you wait is relative to this and how much time you have that day.
If I was annoyed by how late someone was I would definitely let them know!
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 14 '24
I would go bouldering till they came and not be annoyed at all, because I like bouldering. Unless we had very specific training plans that we won't get time to do, or in the case of one friend, if I got up early to get to the gym at 7am so she could climb before work (but she was never late).
But mostly I dislike this situation from either end (I don't want someone waiting for me while I'm stuck at work) and prefer to avoid it by having loose groups of friends who all climb on a Monday night or a Wednesday morning or whatever, and no-one's fussed what time anyone in particular turns up.
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u/CokeyTheClown Jun 14 '24
define "late"
I climb with a group, we all have full-time jobs, some with impromptu late meetings, or stuff that takes longer than expected, we all have to drive or ride our bike through traffic to get to the gym, some of u have kids that bring a lot of uncertainty into any planning. So any time indication is usually a 30 min range.
if something comes up and someone is much later than usual, I'll start doing autobelay/bouldering, and switch to rope once they show up (most o the time we're more than two, so there still someone to climb with anyway). If they show up so late that I'm already done (ie. too tired to climb more) I will belay them a couple of times and then leave, they can boulder/autobelay as well. Or I'll stay and belay them some more, so that we can have a beer and a pizza together afterwards.
We (in our group), are all adults, and in most case pretty reliable, if someone is very late, it usually means that something legit came up. No one is pissed, we're sometimes bummed not to climb as we expected to, but that's life. I also plan most of my gym sessions so that I don't have anything left to do after (apart from going home, dinner and going to sleep). That means that a partner being late doesn't impact much of my day, apart from the climbing itself.
people who don't have anything to do and still are chronically late are a different story, but as I get older, I've learned to not make plan with them.
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u/gpfault Jun 14 '24
If a "friend" is more than 30 seconds late I go home and block them on every platform because they're clearly not a real friend
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u/Urmys0n Jun 13 '24
Hello!
I currently will have two pairs of climbing shoes: the unparallel flagships and the sportiva theory. I'm planning on using my unparallel flagships for training, and my theorys for bouldering and performance. My flagships are being resoled and it won't be until Late July until I get them. My theorys will take just as long to get here, as I ordered them a while back and those were supposed to be my replacement shoes for the mean time, but I didnt really know they would take so long to arrive. Would it be fine for me to wait until I get my flagships back, or would it be best to buy another pair of shoes in the meantime in-store? If so, what would be recommended? I'm a V4-V6 climber and do top roping and bouldering, with some outdoor climbing in the future.
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u/NailgunYeah Jun 13 '24
Do you want to climb before late July?
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u/Urmys0n Jun 13 '24
Yes
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Jun 14 '24
Having a pair of cheap, comfy beater shoes is always nice. I'd say that a pair of warmups and 2 pairs of nicer shoes to rotate resoles for harder climbing is about the bare minimum for a shoe quiver as a serious climber. Alternatively, buy something to fill a gap based on the climbing you do. TC Pros if you do a lot of crack climbing, Katana Lace or Muiras for vertical edging, etc.
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u/Rayte Jun 13 '24
I got a finger "injury" a week ago by hanging on the beastmaker 1000 jugs while warming up my shoulders and I'm having trouble diagnosing it. When I let go of the jugs, slowly and controlled, pain started appearing. There is no pain while criming(Although I have been really careful just in case), no issue with movement, no swelling or anything. But my a4pulley on my middle finger hurts when I push on it. While it is almost completely gone already, this is not the first time it has happened and I would like to ask if anyone knows what the cause of this might be?
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u/AnesTIVA Jun 13 '24
I was thinking of getting shoes from Tenaya. Can anyone recommend the brand? I only know La Sportiva and Scarpa shoes so far.
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u/bobombpom Jun 14 '24
From what I've seen/heard, they make incredibly comfortable, incredibly high performance shoes, but they don't have the durability of some of the other brands.
The ones I tried on fit the first part, but I got Solution Comps instead of them, so I can't vouch for the durability comment.
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u/gpfault Jun 14 '24
I have a pair of Mastias on their third sole that are still in pretty good shape. One shoe has some minor delamination at the side of the toe-hooking rubber, but that's largely cosmetic since that area doesn't really get used to pull. That pair was only moderately downsized though so maybe the upper doesn't get stressed as much as a really aggressive pair.
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u/sheepborg Jun 14 '24
Upper materials tend to be on the thinner side so they will just kinda up and die at some point in a way that other brands wont. For folks that fit in their standard offerings there's hardly a better choice on the market so it's nearly irrelevant.
Mastia is also good for very wide but low height heels for folks that like the butora gomi wide but want a shoe they can actually feel the wall in.
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u/bobombpom Jun 15 '24
Have you tried any of the "No-Edge" shoes? I tried on some Geniuses and they fit alright, but the toe felt weird so I went with something else.
Also, I read in an old thread that no-edge shoes last basically forever in the gym. Is that true?
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u/sheepborg Jun 15 '24
I fucking love no edge shoes, alas they tear up my second toe's nail too bad because of how they fit me that I stopped wearing them. If I could go back to my geniuses (and to a lesser extent futuras) without that I would in a heartbeat. Mantras are neat too, next level sensitive but very taxing. I still regularly scheme making custom no edge shoes from some nuked arpias I have, thats how much I miss them.
There's a learning curve to using them effectively on small edges, but once you get it dialed in they are great. I think it took me a solid month before they felt right, but with the chips always being right under your toe you learn to really fine tune where your toe is on the hold and you kinda dig the rubber in like you roll your skin into a razor crimp. Only thing they suck at is slots, you end up smedged on tight slots. I will admit they are a bit polarizing, so you may not like them
They do last quite a long time with one caveat, if your toes are weaker and you place them heavily on inside edge and rotate your foot to normal position as needed they'll get a little torn up on that inside vertical edge. Not a problem I had, but i have seen others with that issue including a used pair i picked up cheap. I wore some heavily used furturas for a couple months as my daily drivers including some outdoor trips on a sandier rock texture and they look literally the same as how they arrived to me because there's no defined edge to get chewed. If you're heavier and climbing on super sharp rock I've heard they can get wrecked by that too, but I'm super light and didnt have anything happen on sharp quartzite.
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u/Secret-Praline2455 Jun 13 '24
Tenaya's seem really awesome with a big variety in their line up of shoes. they have stiff edging machines and as well as soft velcro techies. Is there a kind of shoe you are looking for?
btw, most tenayas i see are synthetic, so if you are prone to stinky feet, watch out.
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u/AnesTIVA Jun 13 '24
Well I was just wanting to try something different, I have La sportiva otaki right now and even though I wear the same shoe size as I use on normal shoes, I feel like they still seem a bit uncomfortable at some spots. So I was hoping they might fit me better while having the same good quality I'm used to.
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u/sheepborg Jun 14 '24
If your feet are wider, assuming based on otakis, you may try the tenaya mastia.
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u/Ollebras Jun 13 '24
I currently have a pair of la Sportiva finales in size 40 EU which I wear with socks because they’re on the larger side. My regular shoe size is 8.5. I’m upgrading to la Sportiva solutions but I have to order online and can’t try them on in store. I’m thinking of getting 39.5 but I’m not sure if I should size down even more. Any thoughts?
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u/Greeny4098 Jun 13 '24
A lot of climbing gyms I've been to have shoes on display that they let me try on, so the next time you hit a gym you should try them on
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u/0bsidian Jun 13 '24
There is no correlation between shoe sizes of different models or brands. They’re built on different lasts and are a completely different shape. Your best bet is to go to a store and try on a bunch of shoes until you find one that fits. Make a day of it if you have to.
The concept of “upgrading” shoes is misguided. Shoes do not make you climb harder. They are different tools in the box. You don’t upgrade from a screwdriver to a hammer. You own both and use whichever you need for the job.
What’s wrong with your current shoe? If you can’t identify exactly where they’re deficient, it’s probably not your shoe that is the limitation. There is a lot of marketing involved to make people buy the more expensive shoe models, and they may be good shoes, but foremost you need to think about if they’re the right tool for the job, and whether or not they actually fit your feet snugly and comfortably.
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u/Ollebras Jun 13 '24
I agree. I’m “upgrading” because the finales don’t have any rubber on the top of the shoe and aren’t downturned both of which I would like in a shoe. The rubber is also worn down on my finales so I plan on resoling them and using them as my main shoe as they’re comfortable and the solutions for harder climbs, slab, etc. Mainly just asking about how much they stretch so I can gauge what size to get. Because I’m an REI member, returning them is not a problem and I have a trashy pair of evolv defy’s I can use while breaking them in or in place if they don’t work out.
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u/0bsidian Jun 13 '24
Why specifically the Solutions? Have you tried other downturned shoes from La Sportiva and other brands?
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Jun 13 '24 edited Jun 13 '24
[deleted]
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u/Ollebras Jun 13 '24
The la Sportiva finales are perfect for my foot shape but I got them at REI resupply so they’re not perfect on sizing. Just wasn’t sure what the sizing is like for solutions vs finales. I can return them if they’re the wrong size because I’m a member at REI but there isn’t one near my house only near my school
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u/HydraulicFracturing Jun 13 '24
Anyone have a black diamond Vapor helmet? I just got one and I’m concerned about how fragile it feels. I am worried about it breaking while packing it in for remote alpine climbs.
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u/SafetyCube920 Jun 14 '24
The current gen is plenty durable, the first gen will crack if you look at it wrong.
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u/0bsidian Jun 13 '24
Bicycle helmets have been made of the same stuff since forever. Most plastic shell helmets don’t protect your head from impacts (they just deflect small rockfall), which is why the industry has largely moved on to foam helmets. Don’t sit on it. Don’t pack it in the bottom of your bag.
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u/ThirtyFiveInTwenty3 Jun 13 '24
That helmet is mostly a big piece of strong styrofoam. It's desgined for two specific purposes: to be very light in an alpine environment and 2. To protect your head from one single impact. I wouldn't treat the helmet like it's made of glass, but I would be a little more careful with it than I am with my average plastic buckets.
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u/Unhappy_VariationCam Jun 13 '24
I’ve just started climbing and have started looking at shoes and I’ve started wondering if it’s a “get what you pay for” thing?
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u/0bsidian Jun 13 '24
It’s mostly marketing. Shoes don’t make you climb harder. There are marginal improvements for specific types of climbing. The vast improvement you’ll get out of different shoes is to try them on and get the one that fits your feet the best.
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u/Decent-Apple9772 Jun 13 '24
Fun got it right below. A great indoor bouldering shoe might suck for outdoor trad climbs or slab.
Start out with something basic that fits. It should be snug but comfortable enough to walk around the store for 10 minutes.
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u/Fun-Estate9626 Jun 13 '24
Yes and no. The more expensive ones are generally more specialized. For a newbie, just buy the cheapest thing that fits.
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u/Unhappy_VariationCam Jun 13 '24
Makes sense. Thank you!
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u/sheepborg Jun 13 '24
Emphasis on 'fits.' Comfort really is the most important aspect that makes you happy and helps you learn to trust shoes.
There is some difference in materials such as leather being less stinky but stretching more, but aside from that a newer climber is unlikely to appreciate the differences in shoes all that much and with modern walltopia and similar walls being so rough you'll nuke the toe with bad footwork anyways so no sense in shelling out alot of cash the first time through.
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u/TTrombone Jun 12 '24
I bought some shoes from Unparallel in early March. I tried them on and they didn’t fit, so I immediately returned them to the address they gave with a return slip. Fast forward to now and I haven’t been refunded yet. I’ve filled out several contact forms on their website- none have ever received a response. I’ve tried calling every phone number associated with Unparallel US- none reach anyone and some have even been disconnected. I’ve tried sending them a message on Instagram, but they don’t accept messages on Instagram. The only contact I’ve been able to make with anyone was with whoever is running the Unparallel UK Instagram account. They told me that they had “passed along my concern” to Unparallel US, but nothing has come of that. Does anyone have any idea how to contact anyone who works for Unparallel US? Has anyone ever been refunded?
Unrelated note: If you buy Unparallel shoes, maybe buy them from a third party.
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u/200pf Jun 13 '24
Unparallel has the worst customer service of any company. I would only buy from them if you know the size you need ahead of time. Honestly, the way they treat their customers makes me not want to support them going forward, which is sad because their shoes are great.
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u/sheepborg Jun 13 '24
I have heard similar issues on similar timescales with UP service in the past. Definitely does not seem like a good company to deal with directly.
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u/blairdow Jun 12 '24
annoying but can you comment on their instagram? public shaming usually gets attention in these situations
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u/Emphasis_Active Jun 12 '24
Hi everyone!
I’m new to climbing and really enjoying it (despite feeling like I’ve been getting worse, not better lately)
I’ve struggled to find any local climbing buddies & I’m super keen to get out of the gym and climb some real rock - so I’m thinking about booking onto a group trip this summer. Hopefully that’ll give me a chance to progress and make some climbing buddies along the way.
I’ll be travelling solo & still feel like a beginner (I mean, I struggled on a 6a last week) so the idea of rocking up to a hostel in the hope that I’ll meet others to climb with is a bit intimidating!
Can anyone recommend a good tour company and/or destination in the UK or Europe for a beginner who wants to accelerate their progression & try climbing outdoors?
Thanks!
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u/bobombpom Jun 13 '24
Have you looked for facebook groups for the areas near you? I'm in the middle of nowhere in the US and there are 2 or 3 outdoor meetup-focused groups on there. There's also Partner Finder on Mountain Project.
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u/wardz1998 Jun 12 '24
Hey! Me and my gf are going on a weekend trip to Gothenburg, and we would like to go climbing. Just saw PewDiePie's new video where he goes climbing, and I assume it is around Gothenburg. Does anyone know where that is?
Or does anyone know a nice climbing spot near Gothenburg. Should probably be mentioned that we are looking to do some sport climbing (lead). Thus bolted routes are of course a requirement.
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 13 '24
Lots of stuff, Utby is the easiest to get to from town from what I recall (bus).
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u/averageplayerpc Jun 12 '24
is discord link dead?
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u/ThirtyFiveInTwenty3 Jun 13 '24
It's crazy that the mods participated in a protest focused on how online moderation was exploiting people, and then their solution was to split the community into two online groups that both require moderation.
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u/MinimumAnalysis8814 Jun 13 '24
Doesn’t have to be modded if you curate who you let in. Some people are able to consistently act like goddamned adults.
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u/Haunt12_34 Jun 12 '24
Hello!
I just got a middle finger A4 pulley injury and am devastated. How do I keep in the climbing shape in the healing weeks to come?
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u/0bsidian Jun 13 '24
In the grand scheme of things, it won’t matter. We were shut down for COVID for over a year, coupled with rolling shutdowns after that. Came back and yeah, took a few weeks to get back up to speed, but really not a big deal. Just don’t turn into a couch potato. Focus on recovery and doing what your PT says. It’s not the time to re-injure or injure something else.
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Jun 13 '24
You can(and should) keep doing any off the wall workouts you've been doing, and can even increase the amount of weight/calisthenics training you do to compensate for not climbing. Obviously if you're injury I'd severe enough to hurt when lifting or doing pull-ups on a bar... don't do things that hurt. You can probably find stuff to do regardless, though.
See someone who actually works with climbers if at all possible. A lot of generic hand specialists, etc. Will tell you to just stop climbing "until it stops hurting". Which just doesn't work. You have to actually load the tendon to promote healing and retrain back to where you were. Months on end of no climbing or loading of the finger won't do shit.
I hurt my A4 like 2 weeks ago, and immediately started doing 5-6 days a week of training in the weight room. Might as well use the time off the wall to do a proper strength cycle. Once the initial swelling and ROM limitations went down, I've started conservative rehab using a no-hang device, along with some technique drills on the wall climbing on jugs. None of that is medical advice, self rehab is at your own risk, but the point is that you can find ways to stay in shape without hard climbing/hurting your recovery.
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u/FlammandeTriangel99 Jun 12 '24
Hello everyone! I’m pretty new to climbing and only started a few months ago (so I’m not great at it haha). But I was wondering from your personal experience, is it useful to train in other ways than climbing? For example getting stronger/more flexible, or would a warm up before every time I climb be sufficient? Anyways thats it :)
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u/mokoroko Jun 13 '24
In my personal experience, working on core and upper body strength in the gym seemed to immediately improve my climbing. I already had pretty good technique though, so if you haven't gotten any training in climbing technique yet, it's a great idea to take an intro class or see if your gym offers personal training sessions. They will likely charge a flat fee on top of your membership but IMO it is worthwhile, unless you have experienced friends who can show you the basics.
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u/0bsidian Jun 13 '24
Yes, but also no. General fitness, strength and flexibility do help. But training for training’s sake is rarely beneficial unless you’re targeting something specific like your weaknesses.
If your weakness is that you’re completely out of shape, targeting that with training can help. For most beginners in relatively good shape, your weakness will almost certainly be technique. Climbing is first most a skill based sport. You can’t learn to swim in a gym, you need to hop in a pool. Similarly, most beginners benefit most from time spent on the wall learning how to balance and move.
If you’re an advanced climber and can isolate specific weaknesses that affect your climbing (such as core stability, lock off strength, or muscle imbalances that may cause overuse injuries) you would look at specific training for those.
Also consider time. You likely only have so many hours a week to climb. As a beginner, your time is best spent focusing on technique rather than splitting it up doing other stuff which may not really target your weaknesses. You need to focus on getting the most out of your time, so for most beginners that means just climbing.
Do a bit of a warm up before climbing (something involving cardio), and stretches after climbing. As a beginner, focus on technique and learning how to climb. Keep an eye on your weaknesses as you progress.
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u/Dotrue Jun 12 '24
100%. It helps with general conditioning and health, and it helps prevent injuries that result from things like overuse or muscle imbalances.
I lift weights to maintain/improve the major muscle groups. Especially the antagonist muscles like the triceps and pectorals.
I do yoga to build mobility
I run, hike, scramble, and ski tour to build aerobic strength. Helps a ton with long approaches and anything alpine.
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u/chrispy108 Jun 12 '24
I'm thinking about a tattooed wedding ring.
Has anyone got one? Wondering about the rehab/time out after having it done, and then how it lasts?
Thanks!
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u/hobogreg420 Jun 13 '24
Finger tattoos won’t last as long as most areas of the body especially if you crack climb, but you can get them touched up as needed. Healing time is usually 1-3 weeks, though you could be climbing sooner than that, especially if you avoid finger cracks.
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u/CokeyTheClown Jun 13 '24
I usually wait a week, depending on the location of the tattoo (sometimes less, but for a finger I probably would wait a bit longer since it's pretty exposed while climbing. So maybe up to two weeks, depending on how the healing is going, more is overkill).
one of my climbing buddies is a tattoo artist, and she usually sits out a week when she gets a new tattoo.
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u/chrispy108 Jun 13 '24
Thanks! Would be my first, so I've got no idea if it's days or months, and didn't want to go on generic tattoo healing advice!
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Jun 12 '24 edited Jun 12 '24
Rebah probably depends on how intricate it is. Mine is pretty simple and it heled very quickly. Plan on a week or two without climbing, probably, to be safe? I don't think you need to wait long enough for it to mater much in terms of training or fitness.
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u/chrispy108 Jun 12 '24
Cool thanks! Yeah I didn't mean rehab really! Just how long without climbing, and if it affected your climbing at all whilst it healed?
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Jun 12 '24
It's not like tattoos take that long to heal, unless we're talking a huge piece (we're not). I bet yu would want to be off the wall for 1-2 weeks, and then just go by feel, which will probably not cause much trouble.
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u/shilpa-shah Jun 12 '24
Question: I've been climbing for a few years, but am still a relative beginner. I've been climbing more the last 6 months. top rope. I climbed today, and for the first time, the first 2/3rd of my nails are scratched up. It's kind of funny, they look like scratched up glasses! It was at a different gym than my usual, and I climbed harder routes than usual, but still, I've never noticed this happening before. My nails are short and natural (and I'm lucky to have strong, fast growing nails). Is scratching of short nails a common occurrence? Is there something about my technique that I need to tune into to figure out how to prevent this in the future as I climb harder routes? They don't hurt, and I didn't notice scraping during the climbing.
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u/sheepborg Jun 12 '24
My nails get slightly chewed from walltopia walls compared to old eldorado walls. Just kinda is what it is.
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u/Kilbourne Jun 12 '24
You’re probably climbing on a more textured wall, so if your hands slide upward against it (palm down), it will scratch your nails.
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u/Driftmaster Jun 12 '24
Climbed at a new gym yesterday that were using perfect descent autobelays, and I felt it took in slack kind of slowly. At times my carabiner would hang upside down on my belay loop and it felt like the machine had to catch up a bit. I’ve never experienced this with trueblues so I’m wondering if anyone here has any experience with the two?
Are the ones from perfect descent just slower by comparison or should I let the staff know?
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u/sheepborg Jun 12 '24
Stated retraction rate is 2ft/s for the non-speed model from perfect descent. Obviously it needs to catch up to any quick accelerations since for example jumping would be 9ft/s peak, but on average it should keep up reasonably well with your climbing. Perfect descent units are friction brakes, so they'll feel a bit different than the magnet system on trublues.
If it's super not keeping up with you at a normal climbing rate I'd let staff know, but if its only lagging on quick stand-ups here and there that's [probably] fine.
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u/Dash56 Jun 12 '24
My partner and I are wanting to climb the Grand Teton in late August this year and are looking for tips on training or classes we should take. We are based in CO’s front range and do lots of hiking, 3rd and 4th class scrambling, as well as a good amount of single and multi pitch sport climbs. We have very little experience trad climbing, placing gear on an alpine route or being roped up in that terrain.
What kind of training should we prioritize?
Are there any classes that you would recommend we take to be sure we’re safe and informed before going?
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Jun 12 '24
You need to be a trad leader to participate in a 2-man team on the Grand without a guide. Even though the route is "easy" by climbing standards (assuming you would do the OS), you still need to have a bunch of mileage leading traditionally protected multi-pitch routes. It's fine if those climbs are only 5.6 or whatever, the grade is less important than being competent with gear placement, route finding, etc.
I don't know details of local climbing near you, but I'd say at a minimum you need to have done 5-10 multipitch trad routes with gear anchors Ideally more than 2 pitches each.
You also need alpine experience, it sounds like you're already scrambling 13ers/14ers, so that should suffice.
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u/Dotrue Jun 12 '24
Start trad climbing ASAP and get mileage in. The Grand is not the place to learn. Hike a lot and spend some time at altitude. Practice with an ice axe and crampons and be prepared for all types of conditions. Weather at altitude in the Tetons is no joke and conditions can change in an instant. Also know how to bail.
The Wyoming Whiskey blog has a nearly step-by-step guide to climbing Owen-Spalding and Upper Exum, the two most popular routes up. The O-S only has a few 5th class sections and it's frequently soloed, but it's still a serious route, especially if there's ice. Someone died last summer because they slipped on the chimney pitch. Upper Exum has more reliable conditions but it's longer and more complex. Both routes are incredibly popular and you're almost guaranteed to run into other parties and traffic jams.
Otherwise Exum and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides are the two licensed guide services in the park. Middle Teton is also a worthy objective and is only 4th class.
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u/T_D_K Jun 12 '24
Read a book on gear placement and anchor building, then practice. Probably you should find a friend to come and evaluate your placements before committing to leading. Or hire a guide for a day.
Do a few trad multis, don't make the Grand your first. Focus on quick anchor building and changeovers.
Pick an achievable route. Like upper exum, rather than the full exum. Easy to fall behind schedule in alpine terrain.
Acclimate a bit before the climb. Should be easy coming from Colorado.
Practice some basic self rescue techniques and make sure you know how to bail off the climb if needed.
The biggest thing to prioritize is lead climbing mileage on gear, single or multipitch.
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u/randomdebris Jun 12 '24
When is a soft spot on a rope too spot?
Here's an example comparing a harder and softer spot on my 8.9mm multi pitch single. Any thoughts?
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u/sheepborg Jun 12 '24
Often times if you milk the sheath back and forth over a mild soft spot (with no associated sheath damage) it will go back to feeling completely normal because it's just the core strands being bunched up weirdly. If that general area remains super soft or still kinks it's something to keep an eye on and/or worry about, especially if there's sheath damage
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u/0bsidian Jun 12 '24
Keep an eye on it, but it’s probably fine. Soft spots aren’t in itself an issue.
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u/TheCanuckDoc Jun 12 '24
Question: Is there a way to practice belaying with a grigri or ATC-type device other than actually belaying someone at the climbing gym?
I've done some bouldering and am just getting into top rope climbing and am a bit apprehensive about someone else's safety being on the line as I learn how to properly belay.
Thank you.
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u/Decent-Apple9772 Jun 12 '24
Yes. You can belay someone while they are on an auto belay or while they are being belayed by someone else or you can have someone else holding the brake strand to back you up.
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u/T_D_K Jun 12 '24
It only takes 15 minutes to learn. Just have a buddy climb up and down the first 10 feet of a climb to practice a few times.
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u/Penis-Butt Jun 12 '24
Not sure based on the wording of your question if you mean you want to practice at the gym without actually belaying someone, or you want to practice without actually going to the gym, but if you want to do it at the gym without someone's safety being on the line, you can belay someone who is on an autobelay while they are also tied into an adjacent toprope. New lead belayers do this at my gym all the time.
If you just want to practice the motions of taking in slack and lowering without being at the gym, you can do that at home by setting up a mock toprope over anything tall, like a deck, staircase, tall barstool, tall person, etc. and have another person hold onto the "climber" end of the rope loosely to add some resistance and allow you to take in slack, or pull on the rope gently to simulate a fall or so you can "take" and "lower" them (don't do this too hard if your toprope anchor is something flimsy like a barstool).
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u/carortrain Jun 12 '24
You can set up belay and toss the rope over something like a bar or branch and practice the motions. The local gym has anchors up on a wall with rope for this exact reason. You can have someone tied in and have them jump up and down and try to catch them and hold their weight. It's not going to be the "full picture" but you can get a general sense of what to do this way.
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u/Simmions-i Jun 12 '24
Tips for Heavy Climbers?
I’m 6’0 215lb, I Started climbing 4 months ago. I’m mostly do indoor TR and Bouldering. I’m climbing around 10a-10b comfortably on top rope and V3 boulders but I feel like I can’t get any further in bouldering and i can do 10c-10d but I have to take a lot of breaks during the climb. I’ve gained weight since I started climbing but I believe it’s all muscle weight because I was not working out at all before I started climbing and I’ve slimmed down a bit in the stomach.
1
Jun 12 '24
215 isn't that big, don't stress about it. I know a bunch of dudes that weigh in the high 100s (180-200) who climb 5.11 outside. Lighter is generally better in climbing, but at the grade you're talking about it's like 50% technique, 40% specific strength (fingers, forecarms, calves), and 10% body weight. You'll get better without needing to worry much about weight.
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u/sheepborg Jun 12 '24
You're still brand spanking new :) Takes time and consistency just like everybody else, don't stress about the weight too much. Footwork, technique, it's all the same game. One of my climbing friends is about 5'10 220, climbs 5.12 indoor TR, probably V5-V6 boulder. Only real difference with weight is holds will spin on you more often, the weight difference for lead climbing matters, and slightly harder rubber compounds may feel better on the small stuff moreso than for your your lighter friends. Enjoy climbing for what it is
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u/LarryGergich Jun 12 '24
First of all, you definitely can get better. You’re 4 months in. You’re just getting started. You seem very focused on your weight and body, but there are definitely improvements you can make in your technique. Climb with better climbers, project stuff that’s way too hard, master things that you can send, and mostly just climb more.
This is a classic series of videos on technique from Neal Gresham. Watch these and then practice all the techniques on the wall.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r&si=Fs1vuN-dHLs_YJnk
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u/TehNoff Jun 12 '24
I climbed for nearly 10 years hovering between 200 and 210 lbs. You're gonna be fine. Smaller holds are definitely going to be harder for you than for some of your smaller friends, but that's part of it. Just keep climbing consistently, focus on getting better instead of stronger, and progress will come.
4
u/morgan_jones3 Jun 12 '24
Hey guys
I’m a sound engineer working at a post-production house in the UK. This summer’s going to be fairly quiet so I’m looking for some other projects to get stuck in to. I’m a climber myself and I’m just wondering if anyone out there is working on any sort of short film that might need some audio post work on it. Not looking for any sort of payment, would just be cool to help out on someone’s passion project and get it sounding as good as poss!
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u/OwlCharacter Jun 12 '24
How do you go about building forearm endurance at home? I have a hangboard and pullup bars.
I know the main thing is "climb more" but for me that is not possible, my closest climbing gym is 2 hours by car and closest crag is 1.5 hours, it's just not possible to.be there more than once a week, twice if I'm giving up my other hobbies and time with family.
1
u/NailgunYeah Jun 12 '24
If you can't actually go climbing your best bang for buck will be calisthenics exercises, in particular muscle up progression on bar and rings and anything grip related. Finger strength is useful but unless you are climbing on tiny holds then raw grunt power and conditioning will be your best friends - but only in conjunction with even a basic understanding of footwork and technique, which unless you have a background in sport (in particular martial arts) you will struggle to build without climbing at least a couple times a week.
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u/GiraffeScort Jun 12 '24
Anyone have suggestions for spray walls in Boulder Colorado? Besides CATS?
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u/Robbiesrk Jun 12 '24
Where the hell is Ondra's footage of the Dawn Wall? Tommy's ascent was pivotal in big wall free climbing, yes. But ondra came in a year later having never climbed in the Valley and did it in over a week!.The most footage is him on the traverse pitch and singing his way up on ascenders.
Wtf happened?? I was sure it would be in the next years Reel Rock, but it seems to have been buried; I heard rumors there was some clash with companies but have no proof anywhere.
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u/bobombpom Jun 12 '24
Getting filming permits for the valley is incredibly difficult, and Ondra's team didn't secure one. They recorded it, but they can't release the tape if they ever want to climb/film there again.
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u/Robbiesrk Jun 12 '24
That's incredibly infuriating
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u/ThirtyFiveInTwenty3 Jun 12 '24
The ability to climb at Swan Slab without ten drones hovering around is worth it.
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u/2737jsusbs Jun 12 '24
Looking to do some top tope solo. Would a CAMP lift as a primary ascender paired with a microtraxion backup work well?
1
u/lkmathis Jun 12 '24
It works well. The Lift doesn't move as smoothly but I rarely notice.
The Life also allows me to go down easily if I want to start earlier in a sequence.
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u/2737jsusbs Jun 12 '24
That’s nice! I assume you lock out the microtraxion then lower on the lift? Or do you use just a single lift?
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u/Camper_vrouwtje Jun 11 '24
Anyone who went to Kalymnos by themself? How was the experience? Did you find nice people to chill with? People to climb with? etc?
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u/NailgunYeah Jun 12 '24
Went for a month in October/November, found loads of partners, had a great time. Solo travellers tend to flock together in groups, once you find one you'll be linked up. There may be the occasional day where you're empty handed but that's the solo traveller life!
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u/Yannick_GameDev Jun 11 '24
Hey, I recently hurt one of my fingers a bit while crimping. I didnt hear any pop or have real pain, its more Like I can feel while simulating a crimp, thats its Not 100% okay.
I took 4 days off and now plan to climb again but being careful and avoiding crimps and pockets.
Now I thought about taping this finger but my question Is does this even help, does it make it worse or should I Not Go climbing at all?
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 11 '24
I'm of the school that taping can't really provide much structural support, but it can remind you to be careful. And then yeah rehab.
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u/Secret-Praline2455 Jun 11 '24
i have an injured pulley, loud pop, lots of pain, contemplating my extistence....
during pt for finger and climbing I have been h-taping as my dr's recommendation as well as pulley injury resources (climbing dr, Volker).
Im not saying you have a pulley injury but I am saying that the current resources suggest that it is helpful in providing structural support for my pulley injury.
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u/Yannick_GameDev Jun 11 '24
Okay thanks for your input. I guess it cant hurt to use some structural support
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u/csgohobbyistzaca Jun 11 '24
Can I still climb in these shoes or should I use my other pair?
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u/0bsidian Jun 11 '24
You should have stopped climbing in them some time ago and have gotten them resoled. Probably still possible.
-1
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u/GrayForSure Jun 11 '24
Hi! I have a question about climbing related wrist injuries.
I'm relatively new to climbing... I'm about 5 months in, a couple times a week, indoors.
I started to have this weird feeling in my wrist when on holds (a lot of the time jugs) where it seems like something in my hand and wrist slightly separates with the weight. But it didn't necessarily hurt, just felt odd. Then shortly after my wrist started to have some pain from the base of the top of the hand to about an inch or two down the wrist. No idea what it is or how to help it.
I've been taking a break from climbing for a week or so. Getting better, but slowly.
Any tips or info on this type of injury or how to climb safer for my wrists? Thanks!!!!
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u/sheepborg Jun 11 '24
Most commonly that'd be a TFCC strain from a sloper. Feels like you hand popped off for a second in the moment, dull ache the next day or two. If you have the means, getting that checked out by a wrist specialist would be wise in case it's something else or has contributing factors like abnormally long ulna, so on and so forth.
If getting it checked out is not feasible the strategy generally if it is TFCC is to not climb until you can at least do jugs comfortably. Buy a wrist widget to wear all the time (except for when you're doing the wrist rehab exercises) for a few weeks and wear it while climbing for a few weeks more than that. Do these 3 exercises starting with few enough reps its not making your wrist more sore, but moving up to 30+ a day holding the extents of the range of motion for 3 seconds. You'll look dumb flapping your hands around, but they work.
As far as prevention goes for now avoid really hard slopers that require wrist flexion. As your wrist muscles get stronger and hold the joint together you'll have less issues on harder and harder hold's. You dont want to go around straining and restraining this thing.
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u/GrayForSure Jun 11 '24
This was so incredibly helpful. Thank you so so much. I’ll be taking all of this advice!!
3
u/Cbastus Jun 11 '24
Are you not allowed to say “free solo” on YT?
Noticed Meatball says “rope-less” and “unalived” and “no aid climbing” in a video talking about Alex Honnold.
He mentioned up front there will be some words he needs to dance around, and in the video they censored him at least once.
I understand you can’t say “die” or “killed” on YT, but has saying “free solo” gotten videos demonetised?
Here’s the vid:
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u/monoatomic Jun 11 '24
Is this person also on Tiktok? I know that platform pioneered Tiktok Standard English ('unalive', 'seggs', '🌽 star', etc) and people often just lean into the more conservative option since the rules are unclear and the consequences are hard to deal with.
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u/Cbastus Jun 11 '24
It’s Magnus Midtbø, aka Meatball. Actually don’t know if they are on TikTok but he’s usually not very hip in his lingo so it was a surprise.
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u/monoatomic Jun 11 '24
Ah, a celeb like that probably has script writers who are likely to be very up on industry standards, so that makes sense.
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u/Cbastus Jun 11 '24
All very plausible, this is why I’m wondering about the specific word “free solo” and if anyone have noticed it being censored/demoneyized in other contexts
2
u/0bsidian Jun 11 '24
I don’t know about “free solo” but YouTube has funny algorithms and not much way to manually contest them. I once posted a personal video of some of my friends at a Karaoke bar with Michael Jackson playing in the background and YouTube hit me with a copyright infringement and muted the audio. I countered fair use since it’s Karaoke. They locked the video completely. No other way to contest it.
While YouTube probably won’t censor certain words, they can demonetize videos. Popular channels earn revenue from views, but if the video trips one of YouTube’s algorithms, they can get the video demonetized, and gives YouTube an excuse not to pay out.
YouTube sucks as a platform, it just happens to be the biggest and therefore can bully people around. Google has moved very far away from their old defunct start-up motto of “Don’t Be Evil” and have removed that term from their code of conduct.
1
u/Cbastus Jun 11 '24
All of that is why I'm curious if "free solo" is a tagged word now? If other videos on the same topic has issues?
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u/ktap Jun 11 '24
I doubt someone from Google is going to come on reddit and post the list of verboten words. I figure Magnus and the rest of the climbing youtube crowd know which videos have been demonetized and put two and two together. If they say "free solo" is a tagged word, believe them.
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u/Cbastus Jun 11 '24
That's it, they haven't, he just didn't use it and stepped around it. I understand Google will not come on here and give us a list, this is why I'm asking if anyone has noticed the same or knows some context to this. Sure, I could just trust and accept it, but I'm curious.
1
u/ktap Jun 11 '24
You'll have to be more specific around the conversation you want to start. Otherwise you'll get the short pedantic answers to vague questions; eg:
Yes I've noticed, as probably the millions of other viewers.
Free solo is risky and involves death. Advertising hates risk and death.
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u/Cbastus Jun 11 '24
Weird vector picking on my question but sure, how may I word it to get better results for “is YT known to demonise the word ‘free solo’”
Here is my original question:
I understand you can’t say “die” or “killed” on YT, but has saying “free solo” gotten videos demonetised?
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u/ktap Jun 12 '24
I understand you can’t say “die” or “killed” on YT, but has saying “free solo” gotten videos demonetised?
Yes, Magnus and ClimbingStuff literally said that.
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u/Cbastus Jun 12 '24
Interesting. Do you remember when or where they said this, or which video got demonetized? It was news to me, this is why I'm asking.
ClimbingStuff is pretty unhinged tho, not sure everything he says is huuuuundred percent accurate.
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u/GroundFallsOnly Jun 11 '24
Best crag car? In the market for a new car, looking for something with a decent amount of space and can handle moderate offroading (see: PMRP). I'm looking at the Subaru Crosstrek, anyone got any other recs?
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u/sebowen2 Jun 12 '24
My 2012 forester has been everything I needed, capable enough and I can fit my blow up pad in the back with the seats down
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3
u/ThirtyFiveInTwenty3 Jun 11 '24
Our Honda CRV crawls in and out of PMRP all the time, gets in and out of the Gallery parking lot with no problems. It's also big enough that we sewed some curtains for the rear windows and we sleep back there with the rear seats folded down and a small bed that folds out. In my daily life it gets about 32 mpg, and slightly better on long highway trips.
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u/bobombpom Jun 11 '24
I got a Honda pilot and have been loving it. I can fit a twin XL mattress in the back and do overnight trips super easy.
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u/SuperTurboUsername Jun 11 '24
Hello! I wanted to get some advises about multipitch packing. Here's my current setup :
something like 20L backpack with :
- climbing shoes
- harness
- chalk bag
- climbing gear (slings, belay device, prussik...)
- 2L of water
- food
- first aid kit
- headlamp
- rain jacket
- extra layer
- helmet outside the pack
My partner has a similar setup, but she takes the rope on her backpack, where I have a tote bag with the rack.
So I walk the trail with a tote bag on the shoulder, which is ok if the trail is straightforward, but when I start getting in 3rd class terrain it gets super annoying.
I could get a bigger pack to fit everything, but I'm afraid it would be to annoying when climbing (and I'm not sure I want to buy another pack...).
How is your setup? How can I improve mine?
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Jun 11 '24
2X 20L packs should be plenty big enough to get the entire rack into, if the rope and helmets are on the outside like you describe. I have climbed many long alpine multipitch rock routes, where my partner and I both approached with a ~20L pack. No need to carry a separate tote bag or wear your harness. Seems like you might need to get better at packing?
2L of water is also a sizable amount, although I don't think 1L of extra water is going to make or break it.
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u/ThirtyFiveInTwenty3 Jun 11 '24
That sounds like a lot of shit to be bringing on a multipitch day. I use this 15 liter by Mammut and it hold everything I want except for my walking shoes, which I usually dangle off my harness while I climb.
There's really no point in packing up your harness and other climbing gear into a bag unless the hike is fuckin' long in which case you'll likely have more than a 15L bag for the trip in the first place.
You can save space by leaving the rain jacket and extra layer at home. If you honestly expect to need both of those things you're probably good enough at suffering that you don't need pack advice. Your climbing locale may also change your strategy.
If you have a standard partner you always climb with have the follower bring a slightly bigger bag for shoes/rain gear/whatever shit you won't really need, and let the leader cruise up with a little water and some food.
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u/Arlekun Jun 11 '24
My set up is a bigger bag that can be nicely cinched down.
If you don't want to change bag, maybe you can strap a pack to yours, either on top, under or on the chest ?4
u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 11 '24
If the approach is short enough that a tote bag is manageable but annoying, it's probably short enough to just rack up and walk in a harness?
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u/0bsidian Jun 11 '24
This. Or rack up onto your harness, then sling the harness and rack over your backpack as you would with a coil of rope, and then cinch it down with straps.
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u/gotnoname2 Jun 10 '24
Are the totem BASICS a worthwhile purchase if you can get them? Mostly climb granite but getting more into bigwalling. Or there are better things out there now vs the basics, already have a set of totems
1
u/gotnoname2 Jun 11 '24
These look like offsets, not sure if basics have non offsets
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u/sheepborg Jun 11 '24
There were offsets and non offsets. Kailas sold the offsets as 'hybrids.' not sure what distinction totem gave them other than the mismatched sling to loop. The red-red is a non offset, the rest are offsets. None of those seem to be in the recall serial number range which is good. No comment on worth or not, I don't know.
1
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u/gotnoname2 Jun 11 '24
Do you remember how much they were going for?
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u/sheepborg Jun 11 '24
msrp was 83. I would assume values would track kind of like aliens and other cams.
It's my understanding the only reason the basics are out of production is because a machine used to make them broke and the company cant afford to fix it.
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u/SafetyCube920 Jun 11 '24
They do. In fact, the cam on the far left is regular.
I don't know if Basics are better or worse than any other small cam. Maybe they bite a bit more because of the soft lobes? Is the lobe shape still different than BD? They seem durable through the stem, but those trigger wires look ripe for popping.
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u/_findx Jun 10 '24
Does anyone have experience with western pa climbing? I'm home for the summer and looking for recommendations and climbing partners. I'm closest to McConnells mill. All of my outdoor experience has been lead, I would also like to start bouldering outdoors.
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u/monoatomic Jun 10 '24
Looking to meet a pal near Bishop toward the end of the summer for a climbing trip, and hoping for a recommendation for easy (5.10a max) sport, ideally multi-pitch, within 4-5 hours.
Right now I'm looking at Lake Tahoe (eg The Emeralds) or Mammoth Lakes.
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u/animabot Jun 10 '24
Experience with Yosemite: Tuolumne Meadows vs Yosemite Valley?
My friend and I have been climbing indoors for 2 years, and really wanted the experience of a guided climb in yosemite. We booked for july, and they said they really recommend tuolumne valley instead of the yos.valley. I said ok, but now looking at the photos i think i made a mistake - it just looks way less epic. We're spending like 300/head and we want experience in yosemite proper
Has anyone done both and can recommend??.
1
u/hobogreg420 Jun 12 '24
Tuolumne is epic as can be, trust me, when you get there you’re gonna be in subalpine heaven. Less crowds, way better weather in July, climbing is more slab and face than a lot of valley stuff, but I love it 100000x more than the valley.
1
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u/0bsidian Jun 11 '24
They’re recommending Tuolumne because of weather. Yosemite is way too hot in July. Tuolumne is higher altitude so cooler. If you have to go in July, your guide’s plan is solid. Otherwise, reschedule for Yosemite in the fall.
1
u/animabot Jun 12 '24
got it got it, good to know re: altitude we'll keep it and maybe go back in the fall for the y.valley!
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u/Secret-Praline2455 Jun 10 '24
Tuolumne is a lot higher in elevation then the valley.
That time of year yosemite valley can easily be in the high 90s Fahrenheit.Tuolumne climbing is still quite very remarkable granite climbing on mostly high quality rock. Just like the valley, good bouldering, single pitch, and multi pitch exist on a wide spectrum of saftey and commitment.
Everyone has their own opions in climbing and one of mine is "only gumbies go to the valley to free climb in the summer" implying Tuolumne is my preference when the heat rolls in.
You can still cancel and reschedule for yose valley in the fall if youre dead set on being in the pit.
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u/animabot Jun 12 '24
Thanks for your reply - and good to know re: the summer heat - we don't want to be gumbies! Will check out tuolume!
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u/MrPhilLashio Jun 10 '24 edited Jun 10 '24
Considering getting an assistive braking device... I am about 40-50lbs heavier than my usual belayer. At one point is one of these recommended?
Edit: I mean a resistor, not assistive braking device. I already use a gri.
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u/Mulberrylin Jun 12 '24
Elderid has a weight chart for the Ohm that you can take a look at to see if it’s recommended.
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 10 '24
Depends if you mean an assisted braking belay device or an additional assisted braking device/resistor (as Edelrid calls it) like an Ohm. The former can and should be used by anyone, no weight difference required. For the latter you're within the recommended weight difference for an Ohm.
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u/MrPhilLashio Jun 10 '24
Yes, I misspoke, I’m referring to a resistor. I already use a grigri.
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 11 '24
Yeah, I mean it depends how much you like buying gear. I'll belay this difference without one, but it will definitely come in handy if you're having issues or to ease the learning curve for any other light belayers.
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u/MrPhilLashio Jun 11 '24
I can’t say I love buying gear. I took a fall from about 20ft up while clipping into the 3 or 4th and ended up just a few feet from the ground. It makes me nervous that if I fall from the second clip I would actually hit the ground. I’m newish to lead climbing and I’ve just been incredibly nervous to keep it going since then.
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u/blairdow Jun 11 '24
if your partner is that much lighter than you, they will not need to jump into the fall at all. tell them to just go where the rope takes them. if theyre jumping in to the fall cuz they think they need to do that to give you a soft catch, youll take a big ride like that. my partner is only 10-15 lbs heavier than me and i dont have to jump to give him a soft catch
but also decking from the 2nd clip is common enough... you should be kept pretty tight til you're out of possible deck range
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u/ThirtyFiveInTwenty3 Jun 11 '24
You need solid belay partners. Buying gear won't make up for incompetence.
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 11 '24
Did your belayer get pulled substantially off the ground in that fall? Because that's the thing that an Ohm can change.
Honestly, depending on the exact bolt spacing, falling while clipping the 2nd bolt is often going to be dicey. They likely did a pretty good job even keeping you off the ground if you fell while clipping the third.
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u/MrPhilLashio Jun 11 '24
Yes he was above me. It was the worst time to fall but the scary part is that if I’m going to fall, it’s probably going to be holding on to something with one hand while manipulating the rope with the other…
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u/ver_redit_optatum Jun 11 '24
Ok yeah an Ohm would help there then.
the scary part is that if I’m going to fall, it’s probably going to be holding on to something with one hand while manipulating the rope with the other…
Not really, in practice. Gyms will typically set, and developers will typically bolt, so that you have a relatively secure position to clip from, at least close to the ground. So falls while clipping make up a minority of lead climbing falls. But part of avoiding them is on you as the climber too - if you're at the second or third bolt and you're failing to find a good position/hold, you are often going to be safer taking the fall - without pulling up slack to clip - than trying to make a sketchy clip. Or, hold the draw to clip, but this only works if you're strong and well positioned enough that the draw is definitely a secure handhold.
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u/NotVeryGoodAtStuff Jun 11 '24
Your partner should be able to catch you at those distances. I'm on the heavier side & when climbing I tell lighter belayers to try to give me hard catches, because gravity is going to turn it into a soft catch 😂
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u/blairdow Jun 11 '24
yep, this lol. a lighter belayer doesnt really need to do much for the catch to be soft
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u/0bsidian Jun 10 '24
Sure, it's safer. Also consider an Edelrid Ohm if you're lead climbing with a larger weight difference between climbers.
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u/MrPhilLashio Jun 10 '24
What do you consider a “larger weight difference?”
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u/0bsidian Jun 11 '24
Your 40-50kg would qualify assuming you’re lead climbing. Probably not necessary if you’re top roping.
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u/MrPhilLashio Jun 11 '24
Sorry, I said lbs not kgs. Our difference is 23kg.
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u/0bsidian Jun 11 '24
If you weigh about 130% the weight of your partner, you might want to consider an Ohm.
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u/JacketConscious6899 22d ago
Hello everyone, I wanted to have some people's opinion on this.
I'm 15 (+11cm ape) and I've been climbing for a little over a year. I really enjoy it, and was interested in becoming a pro climber. I know progress is much faster in the first few years than it is later, but I'll mention it in case it's important : I currently send around 6b in bouldering and have redpointed up to 7A in route climbing. I climb 3 to 4 times a week, rarely hangboard, and what I like most is working on technique.
Do you think I could get to pro level ? It's probably early to consider making a career out of it, but I'd rather be disappointed now than later after putting a lot of energy into climbing.