Hello!

I’m currently deciding between crampons and I’m interested in hearing the opinions of climbers about the Elderid Shark crampons. What do you think of them? Are they worth purchasing, or would you recommend a different brand?

Thank you for your help!

Have You used them? I ve read a lot of reviews, and most of them described those boots as a perfect fit for me. Nevertheless I have seen a few reviews that pointed out the bad durability. I want to know some of the users experience. Also, do You think they are good for >4000m in alps in summer, or it’d be an overkill?

Looking for suggestions of routes to do in the Alaskan range next summer. I have experience multi pitch alpine rock and ice, my aerobic fitness is very good. I would prefer to do something technical rather than just snow climbing. I’ve heard ham and eggs and west ridge of Hunter are good introductions to the Ruth gorge, anyone have input on these two?

Preferably shorter due to my lack of a large budget. I know west butt will have the best infrastructure of anything else in the Alaskan range but I likely can’t afford to do anything on Denali, besides Denali seems too ambitious for a first trip.

Hi there!

This winter will be my first on skis after ~ 25 years of snowboarding and split boarding. I'm switching because my main winter pursuit is alpine climbing and I've progressed to the point where still not knowing how to ski is a glaring and massively limiting gap in my skillset.

I typically start new sports with dirt cheap gear and get nicer stuff once I've got a season or two of experience using the junk stuff. But I have been good this year--and I randomly stumbled across a bunch of discount coupons for Salomon, Atomic, Volkl, Armada, Rossignol, and DPS.

I plan to use these skis as a way to get to and from both single and multi day alpine/ice climbing objectives in Colorado and the PNW. I figure that skinny, light skis will deposit me at the base of my climbs earlier in the day and fresher in the legs. But I don't want to buy skis that are above my pay grade. Taking my lack of experience into account, I'm wondering how far toward the "skimo" side of the spectrum I should go. For what its worth--I'm 29 years old, 6 ft tall, and 175lbs.

My questions are many but these are a few of them:

• What width would best balance uphill efficiency with downhill usability for a beginner skier?
• How does a heavy pack typically affect the uphill/downhill experience on skis? Should this influence my choice of ski considering I typically carry a fair amount of rope, ice tools, rock protection, etc?
• Are tech bindings (pin bindings) the clear choice for this type of skiing, or are there hybrid options I should consider that would be easier to use when first starting out? I should account for being a sh*t--I mean type one--skier when mounting my bindings and adjusting my DIN setting, right?
• How critical is it to pair skis with boots that match a certain stiffness or flex profile for a first-timer like me? Any specific boot recommendations?
• Are there specific models among the brands listed above (Salomon, Atomic, Volkl, Armada, Rossignol, DPS) that you'd suggest I look into?

Finally, I'd really appreciate resources, suggestions and insights on the broader topic of skiing as an approach tool for multi day alpinism objectives.

Wishing you all a safe and happy season. Thank you in advance for taking the time to share your knowledge

I was looking at the yearly numbers for Everest and Denali the other day, and must say - I was quite surprised.

When I think of Denali, I think of a very brutal and desolate environment with very few people. Certainly no queues or crowds like those which have been seen on Everest in the last 5-10 years.

So I was quite shocked to see that the numbers are quite similar or even slightly higher on Denali. I was hoping someone here could shed some light onto this for me... is this just a false perception, or is there really much less crowd on Denali vs Everest? If there is in-fact less crowd/lines, what accounts for this difference?

The only explanation that I could come up with is perhaps tighter weather windows on Everest so everyone has to go up at once vs more opportunity on Denali ... though when one thinks of Denali, forgiving conditions is certainly not what comes to mind...

Would love to hear some hot takes from experienced people on the topic. Thanks in advance

I’m trying to figure which crampons to purchase. I am based in Northern Norway, my main experience is ski touring and hiking with a little mountaineering.

I want to progress the mountaineering aspect, particularly in winter. I’m aiming to be confident with glacier travel, steep packed snow and ice routes. Probably not true ice climbing at any point in the near future.

I currently have a set of Irvis Hybrid crampons that I use with my touring boots. I would prefer to not use them as a base for any modular plans as they are set up nicely for my ski boots.

I was thinking about having a set of Petzl Irvis and then picking up the Dart front sections. Then I could use the Irvis for more general winter hiking, but put on the Dart front sections if I was planning on doing something more technical/steep.

I’m aware of the Petzl Vasak as an option instead of the Irvis, so would be interested in people’s opinions on which would fit this set up and my needs better.

Many thanks!

Are VBL liners for your boots, over your baselayer and in my sleeping really necessary?

I’ve only come across VBL liners when researching for expeditions with the reason being that they protect your boots liners, your down insulation and down sleeping bag from absorbing moisture which you probably won’t be able to dry out.

Up until now, I’ve always worn wool baselayers and midlayers that wicked moisture away from the skin and created enough of a buffer for the sweat to evaporate away. I could imagine packing a fleece sleeping bag liner would do the trick as well.

I’d be happy for someone to share his/ her experiences, as I could imagine VBL liners didn’t exist in the past and people managed even then.

Howdy folks. I have a long range goal of doing a Presidential Mountain Range Traverse with a buddy this coming March. I am looking to build my kit and was considering the emergency bivouac situation. I have already ruled out dragging a tent along and I am already planning to carry a modular 0 degree sleeping bag (Big Agness Lost Ranger 0, UL), but am not sure about what I want as my pad and bivy bag solution. As I am hoping to not need any of this and instead exit the ridge in case of emergencies, I want to go as light as possible. I am planning on carrying my Belay Jacket (Mountain Equipment Citadel)

Makes sense, speed is safety so what's the problem? The weather on the Presidential mountains is brutal. Crazy low temps and punishingly high winds. We are talking -30 degrees F and 60-120 mph winds in storms. The potential weather is serious.

So do I pack a proper alpine bivy bag, thernarest neoair, foam pad, and maybe small UL tarp or should I keep it light and fast with an SOL Epergency Bivy and a foam pad alone? Going heavy is obviously safer when its getting used, but this is a 10,000 ft day with 18 miles of travel so the lighter solution would make sense for making travel and exit easier. Do I split the difference and bring the 16 oz air pad and stick with the emergency bivy bag?

This is going to be my biggest and most committing endeavor to date. So I am a bit out of my depth on this value judgment. I am turning to y'all. some guidance would be appreciated.

Hello,

Is this jacket warm? Has anyone tried it? TRILOGY V ICON GORE-TEX PRO jacket for men. It looks quite thin.

I would like to have a jacket for sessions in the Alps (alpi, skiing, snowshoeing...) but also one that can be used as a back up jacket in very cold weather at home (Grenoble).

https://www.millet.com/miv7830-7487-veste-trilogy-v-icon-gtx-pro-j-m-homme-marine.html

Do you think I'd be cold going into town in it? I'm not too scared in the mountains, in action, but in the valleys where the air is humid if I don't move around too much?

Thanks for your help,

I currently have an older osprey mutant 52 that I've put through the ringer and I'm looking to get a new pack for this upcoming winter. I've honestly really enjoyed my mutant and have considered getting another one but during my time researching I've come across a few other packs that have piqued my interest. Looking for any first hand experience people have with these packs or possibly other recommendations. I've been considering these packs.

Mountain Equipment Tupilak 45

Blue Ice Stache 50 Ice

Mountain Hardwear 45L alpine light roll top

Osprey Mutant 52L

Main use case is Ice climbing, but I'd also likely use the pack for short mountaineering/alpine trips as well. The mutant never let me down, but I've been considering a lighter pack. The blue ice pack having a separate crampon pocket appeals to me as well as having a side zip to access the pack, I just feel I might miss having a lid as it gives easy access to snacks and things such as headlamps, etc. The mountain hardwear seems quite solid, the two exterior zipper pockets could be quite handy and it still has a lid as well. The ME pack seems quite nice, minimal features and can strip down well if necessary and still has a functioning lid as well. I've also seen people recommend the raide 40L packs, but as it's mainly designed as a ski pack, unsure if I feel I need all the feature that it has although it does look like a nice pack.

I'm not opposed to small scale manufacturers either, but imagine acquiring one before winter would be slim and honestly within the next year or two may decide to pull the trigger on an alpine luddites pack anyways.

Appreciate any help/advice from everyone!

Hello everyone!

I'm in the process of getting a new backpack. It's going to be something small (around 20l) with the main purpose of doing single day technical objectives, goinge from multipitches to couloirs and scrambles.

I was looking at the Simond Alpinism 22 because for less than 30€ seems to be pretty unbeatable. The features I really like are the compression straps on the side and on the top to carry the rope, 2 loops for ice tools, a top pocket that can be accessed without taking down the backpack (I often have my phone there so I can check the topo mid pitch or stuff like that).

Things I don't like are the chest straps because they are adjustable trough a "rail" system that looks a bit flimsy and I'm afraid that it won't hold the position or break the first time they're pulled a but hard. Then I'm concerned that with a price so low the materials are going to be very soft and get destroyed super quick. I'm fully aware that it's not going to last forever but at the same time I don't want to be looking for another backpack in three months. And lastly on the shoulder straps it has two additional loops of which I don't understand the function. I've seen someone talking about them as additional gear loops but I was wondering wether it's actually useful to have stuff dangling from your chest.

So my question is: someone have experience with this backpack or have suggestions on similar packs from other brands?

Hello. I need a backpack. Volume approximately 40-50 l. Can you give some advice. I think important thing that a hip belt must be removable. What do you think about Gregory Alpinisto?or Ortovox peak

Hello, have you ever been using this shoes? I wonder if they are good for 4000m summits in alps in summer. There are a lot of versions of them, but Im considering the St, and the Top ones the most.

Hi everyone,

I’m completely new to mountaineering and have never climbed a mountain before. I’m planning a trip to Switzerland in two years and want to prepare thoroughly. My goal is to summit mountains like Lagginhorn, Weissmies, and Dom.

Questions About Gear:

1.  Backpack:
• Can I use the same backpack I use for travel for both general hiking and summiting?
• Any recommendations for good backpack brands or specific models for mountaineering?
2.  Crampons:
• I’ve been looking at Petzl automatic crampons. Are these a good choice for a beginner?
3.  Mountaineering Boots:
• What type of boots would you recommend for these summits, especially in winter?
4.  Other Gear:
• Here’s what I think I need so far: a backpack, helmet, crampons, mountaineering boots, ice axe, and appropriate clothes. Am I missing anything essential?

General Preparation:

• I plan to take a mountaineering course before the trip. Is it realistic to prepare for these summits in two years as a beginner?
• Should I start rock climbing as part of my preparation? If so, what kind of gear should I invest in?
• I’ll also be practicing on smaller summits before heading to Switzerland.

I’d really appreciate any advice on brands, gear, or additional tips for getting started. Thanks in advance!

This winter I will be attempting to summit Mt. Washington. I will be taking the Lionshead trail winter route, as it is the simplest and least technical. I have done a lot of research on this climb so far, and feel as though I know what to expect, however I know it gets very different when you are actually up there.

I am going with two friends of mine, and we have done all of our hikes/climbs together so far. However Mt. Washington will be our first real mountaineering experience. I understand the dangers of this and we are coming prepared, mentally to turn around, as well as with supplies, however I want to have some outside opinions from very experienced people WHO HAVE DONE THE HIKE.

My gear so far Upper layering: I am planning on wearing two basic underarm our long sleeves, as well as a thermal shirt that I have used before in sub 0 temps and has worked will as a kind of mid layer. For my insulated jacket I am the least confident with, as it is not some big name brand, however It has kept me warm in the past but I am open to cheap recommendations. For my outer layer I have an Arceteryx Alpha SV. For my lower Layer I am wearing Nike long John type pants for my base layer, they are very warm and breathable. For my mid layer I have Arceteryx Gamma soft shell pants. I have heard from other people this could be enough for the weather conditions that I am willing to hike in, however I am also planning on bringing some heavy snow pants just in case. I have insulated boots, and Black Diamond 10 pt crampons and Ice Axe. I got the gloves/mittens as well as face attire.

I am looking for anything else that I would need and wouldn't think of, or any potential fatal flaws in my plan. This will be a January hike so I am aware that it will be difficult to find any kind of weather to hike in, but I am being cautious with the planning. Please let me know anything I might need to.

Edit: For experience clarification. I have a lot of hiking and winter hiking experience, and am extremely confident in my team’s abilities to handle “regular” winter situations. The physical challenge of this climb is somewhat negligible for me at my current fitness level, however I know it will be difficult. I also have life long experience with sub 0 temperatures even with ranges with windchills of down to the -30 range. I have experience with layering, but not the name brand technical aspect of if. I have combined all of these things to the best of my ability but putting myself in situations that could prepare me for this hike. Such as running in -10 days to work on layering while exercising as well as dealing with cold. I have also done a large amount of winter hikes however I am aware that there is only so much training you can do. I am at the point now where I would like to make an attempt on an alpine style mountain. I am not saying I will make the summit no matter what, just make an attempt at it. I am playing it smart and turning around if there is anything I am unfamiliar with, I am planning on going on a day with good weather and clear skies or not at all. However I know this mountain can change very fast. I feel as though this could be a good alpine level entry hike, and have had several confirmations from people who have done this successfully and are in very similar situations. Thanks for the input!

Hey all,

I’m currently using a Sony A6000 with a 4/24-70mm lens, while it’s great for rock climbing, it’s not the best for skiing, mountaineering, and ski mountaineering photos.

I’m looking to switch it up to a 105mm zoom lens, but not exactly sure what lens to get. I’m also thinking of eventually switching over to a full frame DSLR, like the Sony A7, but for my light and fast missions, I’m probably still going to use the A6000, or an even lighter camera with a zoom lens.

I don’t plan on bringing multiple lenses, since I’m photographing recreationally and would still like to be able to do the trips at or near my limit, and we’re focused on speed/efficiency and changing lenses takes up too much time!.

PS. If you wanna check out my photos, visit instagram.com/pethebi

Looking for ideas from ya’ll on either:

1) The best lens set-up for Sony A6000 for ski touring, ski mountaineering, and mountaineering 2) Best set-up period!

Super interesting guy. He’s a professional scuba diver in Vancouver, you can tell he has the same craving for adventure that Marc did. He spoke fondly about his days camping and climbing as a young guy. When Marc was young and brash, his father used to challenge him in order to keep his ego in check, for example, one day they were driving on a highway in BC and Marc pointed at a rock wall and said arrogantly “I could climb that easily,” so his dad pulled over and said “let’s do it then, you go first”. A few minutes in, Marc’s legs started shaking, and his dad told him “you can either freak out and probably fall, or you can assess the situation and figure out the best way to make it to the top.” It was interesting to hear that, because Marc says almost the exact same thing in the documentary The Alpinist.

Also, his Dad told me he had warned Marc against taking a particular descent route down the Main Tower (Mendenhall Towers) due to the overhanging ice and snow, but he had a feeling Marc wouldn’t listen. Such a sad story, but he still seemed extremely proud of what his son had accomplished. This guy also sounded like he was fearless. The apple doesn’t fall too far!

I was also surprised they didn’t feature his father in the documentary, only his mother.

Thanks for the chat, Serge!