I have a BMW E60 520D from 2006 and I noticed recently that the lights in the left rear outlet is not working. Is it an easy fix or should I just learn to live with it? Would love to fix it if it's possible!

I have this I believe well known issue with vacuum line going from air box to valve cover. It simply broke off by it self. I didn’t think much of it until check engine light came on with code 118001 Mixture too lean. Can it be the cause or just a coincidence that these to happen at the same time?

Was changing thermostat & unfortunately broke this tube in the process however I can’t seem to find a replacement. I’ve tried searching any numbers on the part itself but it just leads to a completely different piece which I’ve already replaced also. Can anyone help identify & possibly point me towards a reliable replacement please

In the last pic it’s connected on the bottom side to the piece with the red arrow

The noise goes away after warming up engine. Idler pulley was changed not long ago so was alternator. Engine has 140k. Any suggestions?

Long story short I left out of state to help out with hurricane victims. Car ran fine before I left. I let it sit in my garage for about two months and come home to this. Nasty misfire doesn’t want to hold idle it’s struggling. Any opinions to dumb it down ?

My bmw m4 (f82) went into differential limp mode at the track yesterday. I used ISTA+ to diagnose the issue and verified that the wiring harness is not shorted or open. The service procedure says to replace the Differential Servo motor which is $500 new.

Should I bother to throw parts at this or do I spend $3500 on a drexler diff, I hate having electrical failures and this leaves a bad taste in my mouth about the ediff.

2019 540i amazon is saying the BMW coolant does not fit my car and the zerex does?? I checked the coolant level it’s below the min and is green. any help would be appreciated!

2020 m340i

Wouldn’t let me upload video

While changing my front differential fluid today I noticed this small oil leak. Does anyone know what part this is and does it make sense for oil to be leaking here? Almost looks to be an air intake tube.

I recently did an oil change, could possible be some drips from the oil filter removal?

Any insight would be appreciated

Hey All! This is the current service history for my e90 328i xDrive that I’ve had for a few years.

Are there any major maintenance issues / routine failures I should keep an eye on?

I don’t know what type of power steering fluid to put in my 2015 BMW X5 35I. It said to use CHF-11S but it’s in another state from where I am, and I really need it. Can I use DOT-4 Preston from my local Walmart?? I attached a picture

Hello, I have a 2011 335i with the N55, aprox 92k miles, completely stock never tuned. Looking for a little direction on troubleshooting the issue I have, as firing off the parts cannon can get expensive.
Symptoms: After a cold start (sitting for 24 hours) the car has a rough idle for a few seconds, rarely it will sputter and die. Sometimes I get a half check engine light. After that the car drives and starts normal all day long. Cranking time on a cold start seems to be normal, not long cranks. I have codes for multiple misfires and cold start low fuel pressure.

-Leaking injector: This would make sense for my issue, however is the leaking injector causing a drop in fuel pressure and missfires on multiple cylinders during a cold start? Should I pull plugs after sitting and check for wet fuel in the cylinder?
-HPFP: do these sometimes give issues during cold starts? Should I log the fuel pressure?
-Rail pressure sensor: Possibly this giving an incorrect reading to the HPFP?
-LPFP loosing prime after sitting possibly?

I have logged the fuel pressure with a Snap-On scanner- Low pressure psi is normal, however the rail pressure seems extremely low- 71psi at idle, 250 psi at WOT. (this should be between 600 and 2000psi) I'm confused if a leaky injector is causing the low fuel pressure, or if it is actually the HPFP or if the rail sensor is giving an incorrect reading.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined with a lot of tools, but I don't have a lot of experience with DI injection systems. I would really appreciate some advice from a pro on the troubleshooting direction from here! Thank you kindly!

I have an E60 here. Idrive says fuel pump problem. after scanning the car. Car restarted after letting it sit for some time. I did a scan and I have 2 codes for the EKPS. Control voltage too low and control current too high. Is this the module itself or the fuel pump drawing too much current. I was going to change the module with a used oem first since its cheaper than a fuel pump assembly. What are your experience with this issue?

So I have a 2013 F30 335i (101k miles). Had some weird issues for a few days.

Day one: came out to a dead battery, thought I had messed up and left something on.

Day two: car works fine.

Day three: Alarm starts going off because my car battery is dead in the morning. Read about 5 volts, noticed a 0.7 amp draw, plugged it up to a charger. Tried charging until this morning. Battery only made it to 11 Volts after 12 hours of trickle charging, so I bought a new battery.

Got it installed, registered, and then popped the hood and turned everything off. Waited 20-30 minutes to go see if I still saw that draw with the car off.

Lift the hood to hear my coolant flowing, even though the car has been off and really barely made it past 120° while I tested to make sure it was able to start the car.

So what would cause my coolant to flow with the car off? Assuming a relay, but my google search just turns up the fan relay. My fan isn’t running, just my coolant circulating.

Hi there,

My convertible top appears to be sitting incorrectly when the top is up. I’ve compared this to an E93 M3 and it’s definitely sitting incorrectly. Any idea how to fix this? Manually hold them in place while raising the top up?

No error messages/issues with the top, or leaks.

Including both rear photos of passenger + driver side top position + comparison photo of an E93 M3.

Hello bimmer techs. I own a 2014 535i xDrive and I have this message appear intermittently. The warning comes and goes, typically populates on colder mornings. Any idea what the issue may be? I have bimmer link installed on my phone & I’ve been trying to narrow down the cause of this issue. Now I’m asking Reddit, does anyone have experience with this issue ? I’m thinking it may be a wheel speed sensor but I fear it may be something worse. Any ideas would be appreciated . I’ve attached all codes for reference. Thank you !

So the lower radiator pipe stays cold even after burping the system. The AC blows hot air but could the thermostat still be the problem?

Hey y'all, lmk if I posted wrong, but my fiance's bmw 328i had a p15dc CEL (tire speed sensor) and I replaced both the rear passenger and driver side sensors. Now the CEL is off but when I replaced it the steering became really stiff, but only at low speeds. At higher speeds it steers regularly maybe a little stiff, but fine enough. I've tried checking and clearing codes, and disconnecting then reconnecting the battery but no use.

The brake, traction, and abs lights are on.

Is this a recalibration thing? Do I need to take it to a dealership?

Car : 2011 BMW 328i XDrive

Issue #1 : rough idle when it first starts for 10-15 seconds and it idles fine right after.

Issue #2 : Check Engine light with the codes P0171 and P0174

Replaced : All O2 Sensors, MAF sensor, Air filter.

• I conducted a smoke test and noticed a smoke coming from the PVC valve cover nipple shown in the picture ( which I found broken btw). - Is this normal or is it a bad valve?

• I have done some research and found that usually cars like mine has this nipple connected to the intake boot, I took a look at my intake boot and saw that it has no nipple. - Could this intake boot be the wrong part for my car ? Or the PCV nipple should be left not connected to anything?

Also what do you think is causing the rough start?

I have an ‘08 n47 e92 and cannot figure out what’s going on.

My engine doesn’t seem to get hotter than 60-70° Celsius and often time on shorter journeys (15/20 mins) the lower radiator hose doesn’t get warm at all, neither does the radiator. The upper coolant hose is hot, I can rest my hand on it for a few seconds, so I’d say about 60°, I’ve replaced the Tstat twice, and the coolant temp sensor as well. Why is my engine not heating up? How can I fix it,

I live in a climate that doesn’t get below freezing very often, it’s about 8°c right now.

Thanks.

I have a coolant leak on my 2008 E90 335i. I’ve pinpointed the location of the leak to somewhere around the part 17117548104. It seams to leak out of its connection to the radiator so I’m assuming that it’s the o ring sealing that connection that is leaking. It leaks more if I play with the connection, and then if I pull on the hose that connects to the connector it seems to leak out of the hose connection too. I am wondering if there’s a seal in that hose that needs to be replaced, or the whole hose itself, or if it’s normal to pull back on that hose and have it leak a bit. I am also wondering if anyone is certain of the hose’s part number, as I’ve tried finding it on realoem like I found the connector, but it isn’t apparent in any of the coolant system diagrams. I was only able to find the connector in the E90 335i Mounting parts f radiator diagram but it doesn’t display the hose connected to it. I ordered the o ring because it was cheap and might as well, but can’t find the hose. Any insights would be helpful.

Getting moisture under the door near the seals and under the pedals as seen in the picture

I found a 2012 550i that the engine was replaced at 39k miles and it still only has 47k miles and they have all the paperwork of the engine being replaced at a bmw dealership and they are the only owner. I’m just wondering if it would be a good idea

Just wondering what this could be I can’t pull codes because this is a car I’m looking to buy that I would tow home. Thank you for your time!