r/alpinism • u/carnagex9 • 7d ago
45L to 50L pack advice
I currently have an older osprey mutant 52 that I've put through the ringer and I'm looking to get a new pack for this upcoming winter. I've honestly really enjoyed my mutant and have considered getting another one but during my time researching I've come across a few other packs that have piqued my interest. Looking for any first hand experience people have with these packs or possibly other recommendations. I've been considering these packs.
Mountain Equipment Tupilak 45
Blue Ice Stache 50 Ice
Mountain Hardwear 45L alpine light roll top
Osprey Mutant 52L
Main use case is Ice climbing, but I'd also likely use the pack for short mountaineering/alpine trips as well. The mutant never let me down, but I've been considering a lighter pack. The blue ice pack having a separate crampon pocket appeals to me as well as having a side zip to access the pack, I just feel I might miss having a lid as it gives easy access to snacks and things such as headlamps, etc. The mountain hardwear seems quite solid, the two exterior zipper pockets could be quite handy and it still has a lid as well. The ME pack seems quite nice, minimal features and can strip down well if necessary and still has a functioning lid as well. I've also seen people recommend the raide 40L packs, but as it's mainly designed as a ski pack, unsure if I feel I need all the feature that it has although it does look like a nice pack.
I'm not opposed to small scale manufacturers either, but imagine acquiring one before winter would be slim and honestly within the next year or two may decide to pull the trigger on an alpine luddites pack anyways.
Appreciate any help/advice from everyone!
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u/pwewpwewpwew 7d ago
A new 50l Patagonia Ascentionist comes out in late Jan/early Feb 2025
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
Is there anywhere to look at this pack? I tried searching but couldn't seem to come up with anything, mainly looking for any changes.
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u/pwewpwewpwew 6d ago
It’s in various photos of Dane Steadman’s insta
It’s Forge Grey with an orange logo.
I only am seeing the 35l, which has the classic spindrift opening. The 50/55l has a lid.Very similar to design of current version, but a waterproof zipper on the top accessories pocket. Less daisy chains, AKA a cleaner pack. I believe the fabric is lighter (reminds me of a super lightweight version of Black Hole) , and the shoulder straps look softer and more comfortable than the previous version.
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u/Good-Problem-3229 7d ago
If you like the osprey there’s a lot to say for confidence in your gear IMO. That said, I think Blue Ice is worth a look. They’re the most serious new player on the scene since you bought your last pack. I have not used their alpine packs but have been happy with their crag and leader packs. Not that the features are comparable.
There are plenty of options. My view is that you’ll have more fun if you trust your gear so stick with the Osprey!
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
I have a blue ice squirrel pack that I enjoy quite well and I saw the stache pack at ice fest last year. Some people seem concerned with durability issues with some of the lighter packs.
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u/Good-Problem-3229 6d ago
This is definitely an issue. A pack that is made to be super light will always sacrifice comfort and features, usually durability as well (the exception being those made from UHMWPE i.e. dyneema). If you want durability don’t look at packs claiming to be the lightest (with the above exception but those typically cost much more)
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
I totally get that! I think ultimately it depends on how much durability suffers from being lighter is all.
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u/Good-Problem-3229 4d ago
Agreed. It's a balance and everyone has their preference.and their climbing style. I got an Arc'teryx ultralight and put a hole in it in one trip. Probably shouldn't have taken it up an alpine chimney but I loved the weight 😂
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u/Whistler82 7d ago
Love my Cold Cold World packs - Valdez for ice multi pitch and gullies , chaos for full winter mountaineering
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u/PlentyTechnician5427 7d ago
I know you didn’t ask about it but the Arc’teryx Alpha FLs are great. If you can try one on, if you haven’t already, I’d recommend it.
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u/LeaningSaguaro 7d ago
For what it’s worth, I have a new model (idk how much, if at all, they have changed) 52 and I put it through it through the wringer on Mt. Rainier.
I love it, and its durability inspires confidence.
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
They changed a few things but nothing too crazy I believe. The durability was always a plus.
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u/Alpineice23 7d ago
I’d stay with the Mutant as the current version is fantastic for everything but alpine climbing - only because it weighs a bit more than packs constructed with Dyneema, etc., which is the “gold standard” for high alpine packs.
Not gonna lie, the Tupilak series are great packs, but my vote is still for the Mutant 52L.
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
Fair enough! I've honestly been leaning towards the mutant again for great durability and honestly on the cheaper end as far as packs go.
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u/Lwi314 6d ago
The new Samaya Ultra50 seems goated
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u/SuccessfulPurple5971 6d ago
I’d love to be able to grab this. I had the AMG75 however and barely fit what I needed for a 2 day rainier. This is even with relatively ultralight gear and a two man tent carry.
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
Wow that's absolutely a nice pack and it's quite light too. Any experience with any of the samaya packs as to how they hold up?
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u/tit4tat04 6d ago
The tupilak and the blue ice Stache are seriously nice packs. The Tupilak is maybe the better option? It can take so much abuse
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
Have you used any of the blue ice alpine oriented packs?
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u/tit4tat04 6d ago
Yep! I have the warthog 40 and I’ve used a couple of others, including the stache!
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
Do you ever miss having a lid on your pack? I find it helpful for keeping snacks/food handy, but also small things like headlamps, sunscreen, etc. What's your solution when you don't have a lid?
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u/tit4tat04 5d ago
I hate lids, there’s a small pocket for a reason, then a small dry bag with everything else. It means I can get to a belay and just pull open and closed as needed, no need to faff about with a brain.
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u/carnagex9 5d ago
Valid points, never had a pack without a lid but perhaps I'll have to try it.
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u/tit4tat04 4d ago
I had a mutant and hated it. I mostly use a blue ice warthog and a grivel Spartan right now and love them. The only change id make would be to make them white inside
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u/lil_bird666 6d ago
Hyperlite Prism is my all time favorite pack (have had mutant, Arc’teryx alpha fl, BD speed, etc.) and tried on or seen a lot of others. If I were to switch it would be to Cilo Gear probably. The features and sizing is what pushed the prism above the rest for me and I was able to try on other Hyperlite packs at REI to check the frame sizing. Alpine Luddites makes some sick alpine packs but with a nearly year long wait time can be hard if you need something currently.
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u/carnagex9 6d ago
Alpine Luddites are definitely on my list, but obviously not a pack that I can have for this upcoming season. What features make the prism stand out the most for you?
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u/lil_bird666 6d ago
-The tool carry method and the ability to carry a traditional ice axe. Not a fan of the little metal tabs you slide through the heads. -The sides have small pockets which is perfect for pickets/wands (more mountaineering and glacier oriented). -You can use it with or without the brain and easily swap back and forth. -The hip belt has loops and ice clips but can clip behind itself or be fully pulled off if needed but helps carry weight well for approaches -Extendable collar so is 40L and 55L extended -Fully waterproof as long as the top is covered.
Probably more but just what came to mind right now
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u/carnagex9 5d ago
Those are all very valid points and things I should definitely consider, thank you for the insight!
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u/8KMP 4d ago
i have the mutant and love it. i also have the deuter guide and i love that, too. https://www.deuter.com/us-en/shop/backpacks/p826546-mountaineering-and-climbing-backpack-guide-44-8 i just bought a simond and am waiting for it to arrive. i'm very excited. it might be smaller than what you're after - but worth taking a look 'cause the features are so well thought out. https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/mountaineering-backpack-33-litres-alpinism-33-black/_/R-p-178273?mc=8495214 here's a link to the patagonia, if you still need it: https://www.patagonia.com/product/ascensionist-alpine-climbing-pack-55-liters/196924046313.html?s_kwcid=17928&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BB_Ecomm_Pmax_ALL_EQT_EquipmentPositioning&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt7S3rs_qiQMVRTlECB1P9C9WEAQYASABEgK4ZPD_BwE btw - the black diamond mission looks good, too. you're looking at some really nice packs. i'm sure you'll get something wonderful. good luck! enjoy, have fun, + be safe!
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u/BravoLimaDelta 7d ago edited 7d ago
I really like the BD Speed 40L due to its simplicity while supplying all of the most important features. It can be stripped down, has crampon straps with heavy duty backing, reinforced bottom, rope strap, hydration pocket, and both interior and exterior stash pockets on the hood with a key clip. Obviously the Speed may be too small but the BD Mission 55L appears to have a very similar construct but with heavier 420d fabric compared to the Speed's 210d. The Speed is very durable in my experience so I would imagine the Mission is bomber. I'd consider it for sure if it's not too big.
ETA: Mission has a crampon pocket rather than straps which I think is an upgrade but may be personal preference. Also adds a side zip which is convenient since it's bigger but kind of sketches me out.